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Who wants to go to Marc Jaccobs in Paris,
must break once the Sleeping Beauty hedge his design house
Louis Vuitton. The selection criteria for an interview
candidates are not transparent, in any case they are not
mainstream: One of the few who were admitted in recent years,
there are two gay magazines, the American magazine Interview,
and of course the French filmmaker Loïc Prigent, the Jacobs
several days in Paris was filmed.
More about
After several failed attempts to say one
day: "Tuesday in June, 15 clock." But before the International
Press Relations Director-Isabelle Capece would like to see the
questions. Of course. And you want to please come a half hour
earlier. Sure. Nevertheless, they would first call again. Why?
Oh. So.
The Louis Vuitton headquarters, located on
the 1st , Arrondissement a Belle Epoque building with a
menacing monster swinging lantern over the main entrance. At
the reception you are exchanging ask his identity and protest
against a visitor card. And can infiltrate a large number of
assistants with very long corridors. The last stops: Whether
Monsieur do not want to sit down and forget all the prepared
questions? The Master prefer a conversation that evolved
organically. Sure.
Marc Jacobs receives me in his office with a
handshake and a firm "Hello". We are cleared to the corner of a
table, drink mineral water from plastic bottles. Surprise: He
smokes. Chain! It seems human. And does not happen more often
in the world of efficiency, discipline and aesthetic
perfection.
Friendly, with a sonorous voice, he answered
all the questions that still seems to surround him, a nervous
tension. Perhaps because of his New York team, had just flown
in working in an adjoining room at the designs for his own
label, Marc Jacobs, while in the anteroom gebastelt busily
transforming the image of Louis Vuitton is.
Looks like a man who dictates to the people
around the world every six months and again, as they ideally
should look straight? Strangely, not modern. Striking, almost a
little bit dangerous. A cropped framing his bearded face
crisscrossed with silver threads. The eyes are dark, black
hair, and altogether his appearance reminiscent of portraits of
Italian noblemen from the time of the Renaissance.
Refreshingly, he talks readily about their
own vanity. He gives himself, as he says, a lot of trouble
after getting up. "Before, I was not the type who needs one
hours each morning in the bathroom. Today, I'm just this guy."
He beams. His teeth are blitzweiß, three diamonds sparkle in
the right ear with the silver lining of his silk shirt to the
bet.
Marc Jacobs has invented much like Karl
Lagerfeld, new two years ago. Previously, he was rather plump,
wore baggy trousers and woolen sweaters. With shoulder-length
hair and Derrick glasses he looked like a student
self-forgetful. "Back then I did not care how I looked, because
I thought that I could not change anyway."
Then came the upset stomach. Of drugs and
alcohol was mentioned twice he let himself into a rehab center
instruct. When he went into the hands of the Californian
nutritionist Dr. Lindsey Duncan, who missed an organic diet
with Power exotic berries, vitamins and protein bombs, began
his metamorphosis. A daily three-hour muscle building program
made sure that he certified the fashion magazine Harper's
Bazaar, "the best body in business to have."
Also for Jacobs, it was a long, thorny road
to Paris. "The dream I had always wanted. But it was Bernard
Arnault has it enabled me 1997." Arnault is the all-powerful
head of the luxury group LVMH, hiding behind its initials,
Louis Vuitton and Moet Hennessy. "He believed in me. He was
convinced that I could invent Louis Vuitton. Because: There
were no archives of fashion or handbags or shoes, even with no
sunglasses or jewelry." There was the ubiquitous name, Louis
Vuitton. And Marc Jacobs' talent: "We, I and my closest
colleagues, my dream team, we were the first, and we are Louis
Vuitton. They can say, no one besides me in the industry."
It all began with a historic rare for the
fashion event, made the Jacobs shot to fame. When, in October
1992 in New York's spring / summer collection for the 1993
American, formerly a sleepy little designer label Perry Ellis
showed its chief designer, he was then, the press celebrated
him as "Designer of the Year." He had been inspired by grunge,
from Kurt Cobain and his band Nirvana.
Their motley scene look from the garbage
bags of used clothing, more hardship than virtue ennobled,
Jacobs, by the plaid flannel shirts printed on expensive
cheaply made silk, which he washed out and faded, drew a
sleeveless jackets over long, fluttering crepe dresses. To this
end he combined striped sweaters and leggings, knit caps and
Converse sneakers made of satin.
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